Santiago de Compostela, Galicia
The almond cake of the pilgrimage — marked on the surface with the Cross of Saint James stencilled in icing sugar. Ground almonds, eggs, sugar, and lemon zest: no flour, no butter, no leavening. The result is dense, moist, intensely nutty, and naturally gluten-free. The original recipe appears in records from 1577 as the standard cake of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, given to noble visitors. The quality of the tarta lives in the almonds: freshly ground, not pre-packaged almond flour, which has often been left to oxidise. The eggs must be separated and the whites whisked to soft peak before folding — this is what prevents the cake from being merely a sweet, heavy mass.
Ground almonds must be fresh — the oils in stale almond flour produce an off-taste. Separate the eggs: yolks beaten with sugar until pale, whites to soft peak, folded at the end. Lemon zest is essential — it lifts the otherwise flat sweetness. Bake at 170°C for 25-30 minutes until just set — the centre should still tremble very slightly. Cool completely before the icing sugar stencil.
Use the traditional cross of Santiago stencil — cut from card. The cake improves on day 2 as the almond oils redistribute. Some versions add a small amount of orujo (Galician pomace spirit) to the batter — it adds complexity and preserves freshness. Serve with Galician albariño or a glass of orujo.
Pre-packaged almond flour — the oxidised oils ruin the flavour. Over-baking — the texture becomes dry and crumbly. Applying the stencil while warm — the icing sugar dissolves. Not separating the eggs — the texture becomes too dense.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden