Tartiflette — the alpine preparation of potatoes, lardons, onion, and Reblochon cheese baked until the Reblochon melts through the potato layers — is both a specific regional preparation and an expression of a principle: washed-rind cheeses (those with an orange-red exterior from bacterial cultures) melt differently from aged or fresh cheeses, producing a rich, slightly funky, flowing melt that no substitution can replicate.
- **Reblochon:** A washed-rind, raw milk cheese from Haute-Savoie — its washed-rind bacteria (Brevibacterium linens) produce the characteristic orange exterior and the specific pungent, slightly ammoniated flavour that mellows completely under heat. - **Potato preparation:** Waxy potatoes (Charlotte variety), boiled until just tender — not fully cooked, as they finish in the oven. - **Assembly:** Potatoes layered with fried lardons and onion, Reblochon placed rind-up on top — the rind opens during baking, allowing the interior paste to flow down through the potato layers. - **The white wine:** A small amount poured over before baking — it steams the Reblochon and prevents drying.
France: The Cookbook