Japan — tofu arrived from China in the Nara period (710–794 CE); Japanese refinement of variety and production technique developed over subsequent centuries
Tofu, while often treated as a single ingredient in Western cooking, encompasses a vast range of textures, flavours, and production methods in Japan — each variety with specific culinary applications where it excels and other preparations where it fails. The production process determines tofu's character: soymilk is coagulated using nigari (bittern, primarily magnesium chloride from sea salt production — traditional) or calcium sulfate (gypsum — produces softer, smoother texture), then pressed to varying degrees. Silken tofu (kinugoshi dofu) is unpressed, setting in the final container, producing a custard-smooth, high-moisture block ideal for cold preparations, hot soups where it will be handled minimally, and smoothed sauces. Firm tofu (momen dofu — cotton tofu, from the cotton cloth used in pressing) is pressed to remove moisture, producing a denser, more textured block that can be sliced, pan-fried, grilled, or crumbled. Regional tofu traditions produce distinct varieties: Kyoto dofu (particularly from shops in Fushimi and Arashiyama) uses local spring water of exceptional mineral quality, producing tofu with a sweet, clean flavour; Okinawa's island tofu (shima-dofu) is extremely firm and dense, pressed further than mainland momen, suitable for stir-frying; Koya-dofu (freeze-dried tofu from Koyasan) is the most transformed variety — reconstituting with water and absorbing surrounding flavours like no other ingredient. Yaki-dofu (grilled tofu) is firm tofu with a lightly charred surface, used in sukiyaki and other simmered preparations where the grilled surface prevents the tofu from disintegrating.
Quality Japanese tofu has a subtle but distinct flavour — sweet, clean, faintly nutty from the soybeans — that is entirely dependent on the soy quality and water character. Artisanal tofu made from heritage soybeans with spring water has a flavour entirely different from mass-produced equivalents.
Tofu variety selection must match the cooking application — silken tofu disintegrates if stir-fried; firm tofu remains awkward in hiyayakko (chilled soft tofu) where silken is the correct choice. Water quality genuinely affects tofu flavour — premium artisanal tofu from regions with mineral-rich spring water demonstrates this clearly. Pressing time and weight in production are the primary variables determining texture. Draining before use (for momen) improves both texture and flavour absorption in cooking applications.
For the finest hiyayakko experience: purchase silken tofu from a specialist maker, serve chilled (not refrigerator-cold) with excellent soy sauce and fresh ginger, topped with katsuobushi freshly shaved if possible. The quality of the tofu is the entire dish — there is nowhere to hide. For momen in agedashi: drain overnight in the refrigerator between paper towels, with light weights on top, to produce a surface dry enough for proper starch coating and frying. Koya-dofu reconstitution: soak in warm water for 20 minutes, squeeze very gently (the sponge structure is fragile), then simmer in dashi-based seasoning liquid until fully flavoured throughout.
Using silken tofu in applications requiring firm tofu (it disintegrates). Using firm tofu in applications designed for silken (rough texture in smooth preparations). Storing unused tofu in water without changing the water daily — bacterial growth taints the flavour. Attempting to freeze regular tofu expecting the same result as commercially produced koya-dofu — home freezing creates a different, spongier texture that approximates koya-dofu but is not identical.
The Japanese Kitchen — Hiroko Shimbo