Japan — tofu production was introduced from China during the Nara period (8th century), brought by Buddhist monks as a protein substitute for meat in temple cooking. The Japanese refinement of nigari-coagulated kinugoshi (distinct from the Chinese sulfate-coagulated style) occurred through the Muromachi and Edo periods. Koya-dofu (freeze-dried tofu) was developed at Koyasan in the Kamakura period (12th–13th century), taking advantage of the mountain temple's natural freezing conditions.
Japanese tofu encompasses a wider range of textures and types than any other cuisine's tofu tradition — from the trembling delicacy of yuki-dofu (snow tofu, flash-frozen for dramatic cell structure changes) to the dense, chewy koya-dofu (高野豆腐, freeze-dried tofu with a sponge-like structure that absorbs liquid). The primary distinction: kinugoshi (絹ごし, silken tofu) — smooth, custardy, made by coagulating the full soy milk without pressing, 90%+ water content; and momen (木綿, cotton tofu) — firmer, more textured, made by coagulating and then pressing to remove excess whey, 85% water content. Beyond these: abura-age (油揚げ, thin fried tofu pouches for inarizushi); atsu-age (厚揚げ, thick-fried tofu, crispy outside, silken inside); ganmodoki (がんもどき, fried tofu and vegetable fritter for nimono); koya-dofu (freeze-dried, Koyasan temple tradition).
Fresh kinugoshi's flavour is subtle and precise: a clean, slightly sweet soy milk character with a gentle coagulant bitterness from nigari — barely perceptible but distinguishing premium from commercial. The texture is the primary experience: the tofu trembles, yields to the lightest pressure, dissolves on the tongue. Koya-dofu after rehydration has a completely different, more complex character — the freeze-drying creates a spongy structure that becomes a vehicle for whatever liquid it absorbs; simmered in sweetened dashi, it tastes more of the broth than of the soy itself.
Kinugoshi selection: fresh kinugoshi should tremble visibly when the package is shaken — the less it moves, the more coagulant was used. In recipes, kinugoshi is used for agedashi tofu, cold hiyayakko, miso soup additions (added last, never stirred), and where silky texture is the primary point. Momen is used for scrambled-tofu preparations (iridofu), stir-fry applications (mapo-style), and anywhere the tofu needs structural integrity. Koya-dofu must be rehydrated in warm water before use — its freeze-dried, spongy structure absorbs four times its weight in liquid, making it ideal for nimono (the broth absorption is dramatic).
Hiyayakko (冷奴, cold tofu) is the simplest expression of tofu quality — served cold with grated ginger, spring onion, katsuobushi, and soy sauce, the quality of the tofu is immediately apparent. Premium kinugoshi from a tofu shop (toufu-ya, most Japanese neighbourhoods had one) is a completely different product from supermarket tofu — the soy concentration is higher, the coagulant (nigari, derived from seawater magnesium chloride, vs calcium sulfate in commercial production) produces a more complex, slightly bitter-sweet character. Abura-age pouches for inarizushi: the thin-fried pouches must be simmered in sweetened soy until fully saturated, then gently squeezed and filled — the sweetened, yielding pouch against the rice is one of Japanese cuisine's most satisfying combinations.
Using kinugoshi in stir-fry — it breaks apart immediately and turns watery. Using momen for cold tofu (hiyayakko) — the firmer texture lacks the delicate quality that makes cold tofu elegant. Not pressing momen sufficiently before frying — moisture in the tofu causes violent oil splatter and prevents crispy exterior formation.
Washoku — Elizabeth Andoh; Japanese Farm Food — Nancy Singleton Hachisu