Gressoney valley (Valle del Lys), Valle d'Aosta — the Walser communities of Gressoney-La-Trinité and Gressoney-Saint-Jean have maintained their dairy tradition since the 13th century. The toma is produced from the milk of the local Valdostana Pezzata Rossa cattle.
Toma di Gressoney is the semi-hard mountain cheese of the Lystal valley (Valle del Lys) in the eastern Valle d'Aosta, where the Walser communities (German-speaking Alpine settlers) have maintained both their dialect and their dairy traditions since the 13th century. The toma is a semi-cooked, pressed cheese made from whole cow's milk, aged 2-4 months, producing a compact, elastic interior with a brownish-orange washed rind and a flavour that is simultaneously milky-sweet and slightly piquant — the 'mountain' character of the summer pasture milk. It is a table cheese, a cooking cheese (it melts cleanly), and the Walser community's primary dairy product.
Toma di Gressoney has a milky, clean sweetness from the mountain pasture milk, with a persistent piquant note from the washed rind — the Brevibacterium's contribution is subtle but unmistakeable. At room temperature, the paste is elastic and slightly moist. Melted, it flows cleanly without oiliness. It is the paradigm of the Alpine dairy tradition.
The toma technique: whole milk warmed to 34-36°C, coagulated with calf rennet (8-10g per 100L), curd cut to hazelnut size, semi-cooked at 40-42°C for 15-20 minutes. Pressed in moulds for 24-48 hours (progressive weighting). Brined for 12-24 hours. The rind develops naturally during aging in caves or cellars (12-15°C, 85% humidity), washed periodically with brine to develop the characteristic smear organism (Brevibacterium linens) that gives the orange-brown rind and the piquant flavour note. Aged minimum 60 days; premium versions 90-120 days.
Toma di Gressoney and toma-style cheeses melt cleanly without separating — the semi-cooked technique produces a stable protein network. Used in the fondue preparations and in gratins of the region. The summer milk (alpeggio — from cows grazed on Alpine summer pastures) produces richer toma with more floral complexity from the varied alpine herbs in the cow's diet.
Not washing the rind regularly — the Brevibacterium linens that develops the orange rind and piquant flavour requires the periodic brine wash; unwashed toma develops a drier rind without the characteristic flavour. Aging too cool — below 12°C the smear organisms are inactive.
Slow Food Editore, Valle d'Aosta in Cucina; Juliet Harbutt, World Cheese Book