Chianti, Tuscany
Tuscany's 'tuna' — not from the sea but from the Chianti hills: a Tuscan preparation of pork loin (and sometimes rabbit) slow-poached in olive oil with aromatics and preserved in the same oil in glass jars. The name comes from the texture and appearance: the flaked, oil-preserved pork resembles salt-preserved tuna and is served identically — at room temperature with cannellini beans, red onion, and olive oil. A cucina povera preparation that transforms inexpensive pork into a preserved delicacy of extraordinary richness.
Rich oil-poached pork; olive oil depth; sage and rosemary aromatics; bean earthiness and olive oil at serving; elegantly simple
{"Pork loin (lonza) rolled in salt, sage, rosemary, and garlic — dry-cure 24 hours in the refrigerator to season throughout","Rinse off cure, pat dry, then submerge completely in olive oil with peppercorns, bay, and sage","Poach in oil at 80–85°C (never boiling) for 1.5–2 hours until completely tender — sub-boiling confits the pork in its own proteins","Cool in the oil, then transfer to sterilised jars covered with oil — preserves refrigerated for up to 3 weeks","Flake at room temperature with two forks — the texture should be moist and yielding, not dry"}
{"The poaching oil, infused with pork fat and aromatics, is excellent for dressing the accompanying beans or grilling bread","Rabbit or chicken made with the same technique is called 'coniglio o pollo del Chianti' — equally excellent","Some Tuscan versions add juniper berries and lemon peel to the curing salt for additional complexity","The beans should be cooked from dried, dressed only with olive oil and salt — tinned beans lack the starchy liquid that completes the salad"}
{"Boiling oil — destroys the confit texture and creates fried rather than slow-poached pork","Skimping on oil — the pork must be completely submerged at all times; exposed pork oxidises and dries","Insufficient curing — under-cured pork lacks flavour depth; 24 hours minimum at 4°C","Serving cold from the fridge — olive oil congeals at refrigerator temperature; bring to room temperature before serving"}
La Cucina Toscana — Leonardo Romanelli