Abruzzo — throughout the region, with particular association with the Easter traditions of the L'Aquila and Chieti provinces. Torcinelli are prepared on Easter morning from the intestines of the lamb slaughtered for the Easter lunch, making maximum use of the animal.
Torcinelli (also called mazzarelle in some Abruzzese areas) are the most characteristically Abruzzese of the offal preparations: lamb intestines, cleaned and wrapped around pieces of lamb liver, lung, and heart together with sprigs of wild herbs (mint, fennel, garlic), then grilled over charcoal until the intestine casing is charred and crisp and the organ meats inside are cooked through. They are the Easter specialty of the Abruzzo shepherd tradition — prepared from the intestines of the lamb slaughtered for Easter, using every part of the animal. They are eaten immediately from the grill, in the hand, with coarse salt.
Torcinelli from the charcoal grill are crisp on the exterior and intensely mineral within — the charred intestine casing contributes a Maillard complexity; the organ meats inside (liver, heart, lung) each contribute different flavour registers simultaneously: the liver's metallic sweetness, the heart's dense savouriness, the lung's lighter texture. The wild mint is barely there but essential. It is the most ancient lamb preparation of the Abruzzo Easter table.
Clean the small intestines of young lamb thoroughly (inside and out, flushing with water). Cut mixed organ meats (liver, heart, lung) into 2-3cm pieces. Lay the intestine flat. Place the organ meats with a sprig of wild mint, a piece of garlic, and a fennel frond along the intestine. Roll tightly, wrapping the intestine around the filling in a compact bundle, securing the ends by tucking them in. Grill over very hot charcoal until the intestine casing is crisp and charred in spots and the internal temperature indicates the organs are cooked through — approximately 8-10 minutes per side. Season with coarse salt immediately after removing from the grill.
The technique of wrapping organ meats in intestine (mazzarella, coratella all'intestino) is found throughout southern and central Italy at Easter. The intestine casing chars and crisps like a sausage skin — the Maillard reaction on the intestine produces a significant amount of flavour. Wild mint (mentuccia) is the traditional aromatic of central Italian lamb preparations.
Not cleaning the intestines thoroughly — inadequate cleaning produces an unpleasant interior flavour. Rolling too loosely — the bundle falls apart on the grill. Grilling at insufficient heat — the intestine must char and crisp; low heat produces a grey, unpleasant casing. Under-cooking — the organ meats must be cooked through; rare liver is acceptable but raw lung is not.
Slow Food Editore, Abruzzo in Cucina; Gillian Riley, The Oxford Companion to Italian Food