Genoa, Liguria
Genoa's Easter savory pie of pre-Lenten tradition: a pie made from 33 layers of paper-thin pastry (representing the years of Christ's life) encasing a filling of Swiss chard or spring beets, fresh ricotta, marjoram, Parmigiano, and whole eggs cracked directly onto the filling and baked whole — the yolks should remain set but not hard. The pastry is stretched by hand until almost transparent; olive oil is brushed between each layer. The discipline of 33 layers is preserved in traditional households though modern versions use fewer.
Delicate chard-ricotta filling; marjoram floral note; soft-set egg richness; crisp-flaky olive oil pastry; celebratory and earthy
{"Pastry dough: flour, water, olive oil, salt — very soft; rest 30 min, then stretch each sheet on a cloth until paper-thin","Brush each layer generously with olive oil — the oil puffs the layers during baking and creates the characteristic flakiness","Chard filling: blanch, squeeze completely dry, combine with ricotta, Parmigiano, marjoram — filling must be dry","Press 6–8 wells in the filling and crack whole eggs into them before closing the top pastry layers","Bake at 180°C 45–50 min — the egg whites should be fully set; yolks soft-set but not liquid"}
{"The traditional 33-layer version requires making sheets while others go in — it's a labour-intensive group preparation in Genoese tradition","Pre-baking the bottom 5–6 pastry layers alone for 5 minutes creates a crisper base that supports the wet filling better","Marjoram (not oregano) is the defining Genoese herb — its floral, sweet quality is essential","Serve at room temperature — cold from the fridge, the flavours mute; hot, the egg yolks over-set on reheating"}
{"Wet chard filling — moisture creates steam that prevents the pastry layers from separating","Not sealing the eggs properly with filling around them — they shift and break during baking","Under-oiling between layers — dry layers stick together and don't puff","Baking at too high a temperature — pastry browns before the egg whites set properly"}
La Vera Cucina Genovese — Emanuele Rossi