Emilia-Romagna
The sacred preparation of Emilian Christmas — tortellini (filled with pork loin, mortadella, prosciutto, Parmigiano and nutmeg) served in a rich capon broth that has cooked for 4–5 hours. The broth is the preparation as much as the tortellini — both must be made with absolute care. No other region considers this combination as inviolable; in Bologna, tortellini in brodo at Christmas is as fundamental as a cultural ritual.
The broth is the entire dish: golden, trembling, deeply capon-savoury; the tiny tortellini are chewy and rich; the nutmeg in the filling whispers; each spoonful contains both pasta and pure broth — food that encapsulates an entire culinary tradition
{"The tortellini filling: grind pork loin, mortadella and prosciutto finely, mix with Parmigiano, egg and nutmeg — rest 12 hours for flavours to meld","Form tortellini around the little finger — the size must be very small (thumb-nail sized); large tortellini don't maintain the correct pasta-to-filling ratio","Capon broth: whole capon, beef shin, vegetables, cold water brought very slowly to a simmer — never boil; skim consistently for 4–5 hours","Strain the broth through a fine cheesecloth after cooking — crystal-clear broth is the aim; cloudiness indicates boiling","Cook tortellini in the strained broth for 3–4 minutes just before serving — they should be slightly al dente"}
{"The ratio of capon to beef in the broth is personal to each Bolognese family — typically 60% capon, 40% beef","Refrigerating the broth overnight allows the fat to solidify and be removed completely, giving a perfectly clear, defatted broth","Freeze excess tortellini on a tray (uncooked) — cook directly from frozen in hot broth; they take only 30 seconds longer"}
{"Boiling the broth — a boiled broth is cloudy and greasy; it must tremor, never boil","Large tortellini — they are too heavy and the pasta-to-filling ratio is incorrect; the tiny size is essential","Using stock cubes or commercial broth — this is the greatest possible insult to the dish"}
I Tortellini di Bologna — La Ricetta Depositata dalla Dotta (CCIAA Bologna)