The corn tortilla — the flat, thin, pliable bread made from nixtamalised corn (masa) pressed between a tortilla press and cooked on a dry comal — is the foundational bread of Mexico and one of the most technically elegant preparations in any culinary tradition. The technique requires a very specific masa moisture content: too dry and the tortilla cracks; too wet and it sticks to the press. The correct moisture feels like modelling clay — pliable, smooth, non-sticky.
- **Masa moisture:** The masa should form a smooth ball that does not crack at the edges when pressed. If it cracks: add water a teaspoon at a time. If it sticks to the press: allow to dry slightly or add a touch more masa harina. - **The press:** A tortilla press lined with plastic (both sides) — the plastic prevents sticking and allows the pressed tortilla to be lifted cleanly. - **The size and thickness:** 12–15cm diameter, 2–3mm thick. Thinner: crisps too quickly on the comal. Thicker: takes too long and does not char correctly. - **The comal:** An ungreased iron or steel griddle at medium-high heat — hot enough to produce light char spots in 30 seconds but not so hot that the tortilla burns before cooking through. - **The cook:** 30–45 seconds per side, twice. On the third flip, the tortilla should puff from steam — a sign that the interior is fully cooked. A tortilla that does not puff at least once has been made with incorrect masa moisture or is being cooked at too low a heat. - **Immediate wrapping:** Stack hot tortillas in a cloth napkin — the trapped steam keeps them soft and pliable. A tortilla left uncovered for 5 minutes becomes brittle. Decisive moment: The first puff — when the tortilla inflates from internal steam on the third flip. This puff means the dough has cooked through and the interior is at full temperature. A tortilla that never puffs is either undercooked or was too dry when pressed.
Mexico: The Cookbook