Pisciotta, Cilento, Campania
The alici di Menaica of Pisciotta (Cilento coast, Campania) are caught individually on a small-mesh net called a menaica at night, bled and cleaned immediately on the boat, salt-packed in terracotta anjourie (amphora-shaped jars) with sea salt and wild herbs for a minimum of one year. They are among the finest anchovies in the world — leaner, less pungent, with a complex savoury-sweet depth. This tortino layers them raw in a baking dish with thinly sliced potatoes, olive oil, and fresh tomato, baked until the anchovies melt into the potato.
Silky potato absorbing the dissolved essence of the world's finest anchovies, brightened by tomato and olive oil — a minimalist preparation of maximum impact
{"Alici di Menaica (or finest available salt-packed anchovies) desalted 30 min in cold water, filleted","Potatoes sliced paper-thin (2mm) on a mandoline — they must cook through in the baking time","Layer: potato, anchovy, tomato slice, olive oil, repeat; top layer potatoes","No stock or water — the tomatoes and potato starch provide all necessary moisture","Bake at 180°C covered with foil 30 min, then uncovered 15 min to colour the top"}
{"A handful of Gaeta or Cilento black olives pressed between the layers adds a briny counterpoint","The rendered anchovy-olive oil at the bottom of the pan is extraordinary — serve with crusty bread to mop","Fresh flat-leaf parsley added after baking (not before) preserves its freshness"}
{"Under-desalting the anchovies — the dish becomes unbearably salty","Thick potato slices — they remain raw while the anchovies disintegrate","Too much tomato — it dilutes the anchovy character; tomato is a background element"}
Cucina del Cilento — Giuseppe Lupo