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Ukrainian Borscht: The Most Political Soup on Earth

Borscht — beetroot soup — is claimed by both Ukraine and Russia, and the dispute has become geopolitically charged since the 2022 Russian invasion. In 2022, UNESCO inscribed Ukrainian borscht on the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding — a direct acknowledgment that the tradition is Ukrainian and that the war threatens it. The soup predates both modern nations: beet-based soups have been documented in the region since at least the 14th century. But the Ukrainian version — built on a pork-stock base with beets, cabbage, potato, carrot, onion, garlic, tomato paste, dill, and finished with a spoonful of smetana (sour cream) — is the canonical preparation.

- **The beetroot must stay red.** Overcooking or boiling beets aggressively leaches their colour. The beet is either grated raw and added late, or roasted/boiled separately and added at the end. A splash of vinegar or lemon juice at the end preserves the ruby colour — without acid, borscht turns brown. - **The pork stock is the foundation.** Smoked pork ribs, pork belly, or ham hock simmered for 2+ hours. The smokiness and the pork fat are what give borscht its body. Vegetarian borscht exists but is a different dish. - **It is better the next day.** Like ribollita (IT-R09), borscht improves overnight. The flavours meld, the beets deepen, the potato breaks down slightly to thicken the broth. - **Served with pampushky.** Garlic bread rolls (pampushky) — soft, pillowy, brushed with garlic oil — are the canonical accompaniment. Dunked in the soup, they absorb the crimson broth.

ARGENTINE SEVEN FIRES + EASTERN EUROPEAN + INDONESIAN + FERMENTATION STORIES

Polish barszcz (the Polish version — clear, strained beetroot broth, often served in a cup at Christmas Eve with uszka — tiny mushroom dumplings), Russian borscht (similar but the Ukrainian version is