Umbria — the thick hand-rolled pasta is documented in Umbrian sources from the 14th century. Umbricelli (or stringozzi) appear in records from Orvieto, Spoleto, and Norcia — each town has a slightly different name and diameter but the same basic preparation.
Umbricelli (also called stringozzi in some Umbrian towns) are the handmade pasta specific to Umbria: a thick, slightly irregular round noodle made from flour and water only (no egg), hand-rolled into ropes of varying thickness that resemble thick spaghetti but with more surface texture and a more yielding interior. They are the traditional vehicle for black truffle sauce — the water-only dough has a neutral flavour that showcases the truffle without competing. The sauce is minimal: butter (or olive oil), grated black truffle, a little pasta cooking water, and sometimes a small amount of anchovy dissolved in the butter for depth.
The umbricello has a satisfying chew and a neutral flavour that exists purely to carry the truffle — the thick, slightly irregular noodle gives the butter and truffle sauce something to cling to. Each mouthful delivers a concentrated dose of truffle aroma, fat, and starchy pasta. It is a luxurious dish in the most restrained possible way.
The dough: 00 flour and water only, ratio approximately 2:1 by weight. No eggs — the dough is stiff, and the absence of egg produces the characteristic white, dense interior. Knead 10 minutes, rest 30 minutes under a cloth. Roll into ropes of 4-5mm diameter by hand — the slight variation in thickness is characteristic and correct. The truffle sauce: melt butter gently (not brown), add grated fresh black truffle off the heat, allow to sit 1 minute. Add al dente umbricelli and a splash of pasta water, toss vigorously. The pasta water emulsifies the butter and distributes the truffle aroma. Plate and shave additional raw truffle over the top.
Adding a small anchovy (washed, salted-packed) to the butter before adding the truffle provides umami depth without announcing its presence — it dissolves completely and is undetectable as anchovy. The anchovy-truffle-butter combination is one of the technical secrets of Umbrian truffle pasta. Pasta water at this point should be quite starchy — the starch is the emulsifier. Cook the umbricelli in a smaller amount of water than standard to maximize starch.
Using egg dough — the richness of egg dough competes with the truffle; water dough is correct. Making the ropes too uniform — the hand-rolled variation in thickness is part of the texture of the finished dish. Overheating the truffle butter — keep it barely warm; high heat drives off the volatile aromatics. Using truffle oil — not an acceptable substitute.
Oretta Zanini de Vita, Encyclopedia of Pasta; Slow Food Editore, Umbria in Cucina