Umbria — wild hare ragù with hand-made pasta is found throughout the Umbrian hunting territory, most strongly in the Spoleto, Perugia, and Gubbio areas. The preparation is an autumn-winter dish timed to the open hare hunting season.
Umbrichelli (or strangozzi — the names are used interchangeably, though purists distinguish them by thickness and rolling technique) with hare ragù (ragù di lepre) is the autumn and winter primo of Umbria's game season. Wild hare (lepre selvatica) is abundant in the Umbrian hills; the ragù uses the saddle and legs, marinated overnight in red wine with juniper and rosemary, then slow-braised with tomato, celery, and carrot, and the finished meat hand-pulled into fibrous pieces. The ragù is dark, intensely flavoured, and slightly gamey — the hare has more flavour and more distinctive notes than rabbit. The umbrichelli's rough surface holds the ragù in its texture.
Umbrichelli al ragù di lepre is a deeply dark, assertive primo — the ragù has a density and slight gamey depth from the wild hare that is immediately recognisable. The Sagrantino wine in the braise adds a tannic, slightly austere note. The rough umbrichelli hold the fibrous meat in their folds. With a glass of Sagrantino di Montefalco, it is one of the most complete Umbrian pairings.
Marinate hare pieces (saddle, legs) overnight in Sagrantino or Montefalco Rosso with juniper, bay, rosemary, and caraway. Drain; reserve marinade. Brown hare in olive oil and lard until deeply coloured. Add mirepoix; cook until soft. Add marinade wine; reduce by half. Add crushed tomato; braise covered 2 hours until the meat is completely tender and falling from the bone. Remove bones; hand-pull the meat into fibres (do not blend — the texture should be fibrous, not pasty). Return to sauce; simmer 10 more minutes to integrate. Cook umbrichelli or strangozzi in salted water 4-6 minutes; dress generously with the ragù. Finish with grated Pecorino Sardo or dry aged Ricotta.
Wild hare (lepre selvatica) has a much more distinctive flavour than farmed hare; if using farmed hare, increase the juniper and rosemary in the marinade. The Sagrantino di Montefalco in the braise is the Umbrian choice — its extraordinary tannin level helps break down the hare's tougher fibres. Dried porcini mushrooms added to the braise with the tomato give an additional layer of umami.
Marinating for less than 8 hours — hare requires a full overnight marinade for the wine and juniper to penetrate; shorter marination produces a gamey, sharp result rather than a mellowed one. Processing the meat in a blender — the ragù di lepre should be fibrous, not pasty; hand-pulling preserves the texture. Under-reducing the sauce — the braising liquid should be very concentrated before the meat is returned; watery hare ragù is unacceptable.
Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane; Slow Food Editore, Umbria in Cucina