Galicia, Spain
Galician scallops (vieiras) in their shell, topped with a sofrito of onion, tomato, jamón serrano, and pimentón, then gratinéed with breadcrumbs under a high grill. The scallop is the symbol of the Camino de Santiago — pilgrims carried the shell as identification and collected them from the Galician coast. The vieira preparation is a direct continuation of this tradition: the best scallops in Spain are from the rías (estuaries) of Galicia, harvested by diving in designated areas. The technique is similar to txangurro — the shell is both vessel and presentation — but the scallop's more delicate flavour requires a lighter, less tomato-dominant sofrito.
The scallop must be very fresh — 24 hours maximum from the sea. Open by inserting a flat knife between the shells and severing the muscle. Remove the skirt and roe if present — use in the sofrito base for additional depth. The sofrito must be fully cooked and cooled before adding to the shell — hot filling continues to cook the scallop before it goes under the grill. Gratin for 3-4 minutes maximum under very high heat.
In Galicia, vieiras are served on scallop shells as the traditional presentation for the Feast of Santiago (25 July). For service without fresh shells, natural coquilles Saint-Jacques shells are available from kitchen supply companies. The roe of the scallop can be incorporated into the sofrito or served alongside as is — it has a more intensely briny flavour. Pair with Albariño.
Overcooking the scallop — it must remain just-cooked at service. Hot sofrito causing overcooking before the grill. Too much sofrito overwhelming the scallop's flavour. Thick breadcrumbs — they should form a thin crust, not a dome.
The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden