Marche — the dish is documented from the 18th century in sources from the Macerata and Ancona areas. The name's alleged connection to the Austrian general Windischgrätz is disputed — it may simply derive from 'vincisgrassi' (win the fat — a reference to the richness of the dish).
Vincisgrassi is the great baked pasta of the Marche: a lasagne-like preparation of thin egg pasta sheets layered with a rich ragù of chicken giblets and offal (the traditional version), or mixed pork and beef in the modern interpretation, bound with a besciamella made with cream and enriched with Marsala or aged wine vinegar. It is baked until browned and set, then rested before serving. Unlike Bolognese lasagne, the vincisgrassi sauce leans toward the savoury-mineral from the giblets, and the pasta sheets are thinner — the dish has a delicacy that the heavier Emilian version lacks. The name possibly derives from an 18th-century Austrian general, Windischgrätz, stationed in the Marche.
Vincisgrassi at its best is simultaneously richer and more delicate than Bolognese lasagne — the giblet ragù has a mineral, almost metallic depth from the livers and sweetbreads, rounded by the Marsala; the cream-enriched besciamella has a smoother, more luxurious texture; the thin pasta absorbs everything. It is a festive dish in the truest sense — not everyday, but truly special.
The traditional ragù: chicken livers, sweetbreads, bone marrow, and chicken giblets (or a mixture of whatever offal is available), chopped fine, sautéed in butter with a soffritto, deglazed with Marsala, then simmered with tomato for 30-40 minutes. The besciamella is richer than the standard — some recipes use half cream, half milk. The pasta sheets are rolled to nearly translucent thinness (1mm or less). Layer: pasta, ragù, besciamella, grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Minimum 5 layers. Top layer: pasta, besciamella, Parmigiano, and plenty of butter in small pieces. Bake at 180°C for 35-40 minutes until the top is golden and bubbling. Rest 20 minutes before cutting.
The giblet ragù can be made 2 days ahead and the flavours will improve. The assembled vincisgrassi can be refrigerated (unbaked) overnight and baked the day of serving — it actually bakes more evenly from cold. The Marsala in the ragù is the flavour that distinguishes vincisgrassi from all other baked pastas — do not substitute dry white wine. A dusting of truffle shavings over the top layer before baking is the aristocratic version from the Marche interior.
Using beef ragù instead of giblet-based — the traditional vincisgrassi has a different flavour profile entirely. Not thinning the pasta sufficiently — thick pasta sheets make the dish stodgy; the pasta should be almost translucent. Not resting after baking — the layers must set before cutting or the vincisgrassi collapses. Skimping on butter — this is a festive dish and generosity with butter is appropriate.
Oretta Zanini de Vita, Encyclopedia of Pasta; Slow Food Editore, Marche in Cucina