Welsh Rarebit du Nord (Le Welsh)

Le Welsh is the Nord-Pas-de-Calais's adopted comfort dish — a gratin of melted cheddar cheese, beer, and mustard poured over a thick slice of ham on toast, gratinéed until bubbling and golden. Despite the name's obvious British origin, le Welsh is as northern French as frites and Maroilles: it was brought to the mining towns and ports of the Nord (Boulogne-sur-Mer, Calais, Dunkirk) by British workers and soldiers in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and was adopted, adapted, and made incontestably French by the addition of better beer (northern French bière de garde or abbey-style ale), better mustard (Dijon or local), and the ritual of serving it as a substantial meal rather than a light snack. The technique: melt 40g butter in a heavy saucepan, add 400g grated mature cheddar (the Nord insists on genuine British cheddar, not French substitutes — this is the British DNA that must remain), stir over low heat until melting begins, then add 200ml strong blonde beer (Ch'ti Blonde, Jenlain, or 3 Monts), 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce, and a pinch of cayenne. Stir continuously until the mixture is smooth, thick, and homogeneous — a beer-and-cheese fondue. In individual gratin dishes, place a thick slice of grilled pain de campagne, top with a generous slice of good ham (jambon de Paris or local jambon fumé), pour the cheese-beer sauce over, and gratinée under a hot grill for 3-4 minutes until bubbling and golden-brown. Serve immediately with a green salad and frites. Le Welsh is the undisputed king of the estaminets — the traditional café-restaurants of northern France, dark-paneled, stove-heated rooms where coal miners, farmers, and factory workers have been eating Welsh for over a century.

• British Welsh rarebit (the original)
• Swiss fondue (melted cheese with alcohol)
• Raclette (melted cheese over potatoes)
• Austrian Käsespätzle (cheese and noodle gratin)