Wensi tofu (文思豆腐) is one of the most technically demanding preparations in all of Chinese cooking — a Huaiyang specialty in which a block of extremely soft tofu is cut into threads so fine (approximately 1mm) that they tremble in the stock without breaking, creating a dish that looks like the finest noodles but is made entirely of tofu. The dish is named for Wensi, a Buddhist monk-cook at the Tianning Monastery in Yangzhou during the Qing dynasty, who is credited with its creation. It is a test of knife skill and patience — the cutting must be done with extraordinary precision, and a single aggressive stroke will shatter the delicate tofu.
The tofu: Use the softest possible firm tofu (not silken — silken tofu is too delicate to cut). The tofu must be very fresh. Chill for 30 minutes before cutting — cold tofu is slightly firmer and easier to handle. The cutting: The tofu block is first cut horizontally into extremely thin slices (approximately 1mm). Each thin slice is then cut vertically into threads of the same width. This requires a very sharp, thin blade; a steady, confident stroke; and an understanding that slow, tentative cutting is more dangerous than decisive, swift cutting. The broth: The cut tofu threads are gently transferred to a bowl of cold water to prevent sticking. The finished dish is a clear, rich, superior stock (qing tang) garnished with the tofu threads, a few chopped scallion greens, and possibly a small amount of ham or mushroom shreds for colour contrast.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Land of Fish and Rice (2016); Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet (2023)