Wonton-Noodle Soup (Wan Tan Mian / 云吞面)

Hong Kong — evolved from Guangdong wonton tradition

Hong Kong's most iconic noodle dish: thin egg noodles (mian) with several prawn-pork wontons in a clear but intensely savoury broth enriched with dried flounder, dried shrimp, and long-simmered pork bones. The noodles must be springy, slightly alkaline (from lye water or egg), and al dente. The whole is greater than the sum: broth, noodle, and wonton must balance perfectly.

• Japanese wonton ramen (direct descendant)
• Vietnamese mi hoanh thanh (Chinese-influenced noodle soup)
• Italian tortellini in brodo (stuffed pasta in clear broth)

Refined, clean seafood-pork broth; springy alkaline noodles; sweet prawn-pork wontons — each element at its best; a masterclass in Cantonese restraint