Yang rou chuan (羊肉串, literally lamb meat skewers) are the most internationally recognisable preparation of Xinjiang's Uyghur cuisine — small cubes of lamb (with fat attached) skewered on thin metal skewers, seasoned with cumin (zi ran, 孜然) and chilli powder, then grilled over charcoal. Yang rou chuan stalls appear at night markets across China; the sizzle of lamb fat on charcoal, the fragrance of cumin, and the visual spectacle of hundreds of skewers grilling simultaneously are one of the defining sensory experiences of Chinese street food culture.
The lamb: Use fatty cuts — lamb shoulder or leg — cut into small cubes (1.5-2cm). The fat is essential — each skewer should alternate between lean and fat cubes, with fat cubes at least 30% of the total. The fat bastes the lean meat as it melts during grilling and prevents the lean pieces from drying out. The seasoning: Apply in two stages. Stage 1 (before grilling): mix lamb cubes with salt, light soy sauce, and half the cumin. Marinate 30 minutes. Stage 2 (during grilling): sprinkle additional cumin and chilli powder (Xinjiang style — a mix of chilli powder and dried chilli flakes) directly onto the skewers as they cook. The cumin applied during grilling toasts against the hot lamb fat and chars very slightly — this is the signature aroma of yang rou chuan. The charcoal: Traditional yang rou chuan is grilled directly over charcoal in a long, narrow grill designed to hold multiple skewers side by side — not over a barbecue grill. The charcoal flame should be hot and direct. The grilling: 2-3 minutes total, turning constantly — the skewers are rotated every 30 seconds to ensure even cooking.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Invitation to a Banquet (2023)