Jiangnan and Shandong — East China Sea fishery
Large yellow croaker (da huang yu) is one of China's most prized fish — now severely overfished and extremely expensive. Wild yellow croaker from the East China Sea is a defining Jiangnan and Shandong ingredient. Typically red-braised or steamed whole; the golden, slightly oily flesh has a unique sweet-savoury flavour unlike any other fish. The wild variety is now so rare it appears mainly at premium banquets.
Incomparably sweet, mildly oily fish flesh — one of China's most-mourned flavours as wild stocks have collapsed; the red-braise amplifies without masking
{"Wild vs farmed: wild da huang yu has incomparably superior flavour; farmed version acceptable but clearly inferior","Red braise technique: pan-fry fish until golden on both sides; braise in soy-wine-ginger-sugar sauce for 10 minutes","Basting during braise with the sauce to ensure even coating","Must not overcook — yellow croaker is a delicate fish; 10 minutes total cooking is typically sufficient"}
{"The Hangzhou version (Hong Shao Huang Yu) adds a little Zhenjiang vinegar to the braise — Jiangnan touch","Fresh yellow croaker season: April-June when the fish migrate through the East China Sea","The dried version (xiang yu) of yellow croaker is a different product — strong, pungent, used as a seasoning ingredient"}
{"Overcooking the delicate flesh","Using farmed yellow croaker in a preparation intended to showcase wild fish flavour"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop