Xishuangbanna, southern Yunnan — the Dai people's homeland at the intersection of China, Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand
The Dai people's cuisine (xishuangbanna, southern Yunnan on the Thai border): strongly influenced by mainland Southeast Asia — lemongrass, galangal, betel leaf, sour flavours, grilled banana-leaf parcels. Distinctly different from Han Chinese cooking; closer to Thai cuisine. Grilled fish in banana leaf with lemongrass, sour bamboo, and dried chili is the signature technique.
Sour, lemongrass-fragrant, herbal, slightly funky with fermented bamboo — Southeast Asian in character
{"Banana leaf wrapping: wrap tightly with aromatics, grill directly over charcoal","Sour flavours (lemon, tamarind, green mango) used extensively — a Southeast Asian characteristic","Lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaf are the aromatic backbone","Minimal oil — grilling and steaming over banana leaf are dominant techniques"}
{"Sour bamboo shoot (suan zhu sun) is a Dai staple — adds essential fermented-sour note","Betel leaf can be used in place of banana leaf for grilling smaller items","The Dai minority also produces a distinctive rice wine (mi jiu) that features in cooking"}
{"Applying standard Han Chinese seasoning — completely different flavour profile","Not wrapping tightly — aromatics escape and fish steams in water rather than its own juices","Using dried spices instead of fresh — the Dai cuisine relies on fresh aromatics"}
Every Grain of Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop