Yunnan province has the most diverse wild mushroom culture in China — it is estimated that more than 250 of the world's 400 edible wild mushroom species grow in Yunnan's forests, and mushrooms are a central element of Yunnan cuisine in a way that is unique in China. The annual wild mushroom season (July-September) is eagerly anticipated across the country. Yunnan wild mushrooms include: matsutake (松茸, song rong) — the most prized and expensive; morels (羊肚菌, yang du jun) — used in the qi guo ji steam pot; chanterelles (鸡油菌, ji you jun) — the golden chanterelle, sauteed simply in butter or stir-fried; porcini (牛肝菌, niu gan jun) — used in dry-fried preparations; and termite mushrooms (鸡枞菌, ji zong jun) — one of the most uniquely Yunnanese species, found only near termite nests.
The matsutake approach: Yunnan matsutake (song rong) is best consumed with minimal intervention — sliced thin and lightly grilled or steamed, with only salt and perhaps a drizzle of good oil. The fragrance is intensely spicy-cinnamon-like and disappears with heavy seasoning. Dry-frying porcini (niu gan jun): The classic Yunnan preparation. Slice fresh porcini thickly. Dry-fry in a wok with minimal oil over medium heat until the moisture evaporates and the edges begin to caramelize. Season simply with salt, dried chilli flakes, and Sichuan peppercorn. The resulting porcini is chewy, intensely savoury, and aromatic. Chanterelle butter-fry: Simply sauteed in butter with garlic and salt — the technique reflects Yunnan's proximity to both Southeast Asian and European (French colonial) influences.
Fuchsia Dunlop, Every Grain of Rice (2012)