The Levant — Palestine, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan — one of the oldest continuously used spice blends in human history
Za'atar is simultaneously a herb (a wild thyme species, Origanum syriacum) and the spice blend made from it — one of the most important pantry preparations in Levantine cooking, used daily in Palestinian, Lebanese, Syrian, Jordanian, and Israeli kitchens. The blend of dried za'atar herb, sesame seeds, sumac, and salt is as essential to these food cultures as salt and pepper are to European cooking. The dried herb mixture is most commonly eaten stirred into olive oil and spread on fresh bread (manakish za'atar, the beloved flatbread of Lebanon and Palestine, is made this way). It is also scattered over labneh, mixed into salad dressings, used as a dry rub for chicken, and dusted over fried eggs. The ratio of za'atar herb to sumac to sesame determines the character of the blend. More sumac produces a sharper, more sour za'atar; more sesame produces a nuttier, more mellow version. Palestinian za'atar tends to be greener and more herb-forward; Lebanese za'atar often includes more sumac. Each family has its blend. The herb itself — Origanum syriacum — has a flavour somewhere between dried oregano and wild thyme with a slightly more bitter, mineral edge. It cannot be perfectly replicated by dried oregano or thyme alone, though a combination comes close. Za'atar embodies the Levantine food principle that flavour complexity comes from layering simple, high-quality elements — not from elaborate preparation but from the calibration of a few ingredients into a harmonious whole.
Herbal, tangy from sumac, nutty from sesame — earthy and Mediterranean
Use wild za'atar (Origanum syriacum) if available — it is fundamentally different from common oregano Dry-roast the sesame seeds separately until golden — raw sesame has insufficient flavour Sumac quality varies enormously — buy from Middle Eastern shops where turnover is high The blend should be mixed dry and stored without oil — add oil only at the moment of serving Grind dried herb coarsely — too fine and it becomes dusty; too coarse and it doesn't distribute evenly
Make larger quantities and store in an airtight jar away from light — it keeps for 3 months For manakish, use a ratio of 1 part za'atar blend to 1 part olive oil for a spreadable consistency Za'atar mixed with olive oil makes an excellent marinade for chicken — particularly for whole spatchcocked birds Fresh za'atar leaves (if available) can be used as a herb in their own right — add to salads or scatter over mezze A small amount of ground cumin added to the blend is a Syrian variation worth trying
Using dried thyme or oregano as a one-to-one substitute — the flavour is different, though better than skipping Adding oil to the stored blend — it causes the dried herbs to clump and lose crunch Using stale sumac — old sumac loses its tartness and contributes only colour Over-roasting sesame seeds — they continue to cook off-heat; remove when golden, not brown Using too much salt — za'atar bread is typically quite salty on its own; the blend should not be oversalted before use