Za'atar is simultaneously a herb (wild thyme, Origanum syriacum, endemic to the Levant) and a spice blend made from that herb combined with sumac, sesame, and salt. The blend has been used in the region for centuries — mentioned in ancient texts, present in every Palestinian and Lebanese kitchen. Ottolenghi uses it throughout Jerusalem as a finishing element, a marinade component, and a flavour bridge across dishes.
The za'atar blend (dried thyme or oregano, ground sumac, toasted sesame seeds, salt) used as a finishing spice, mixed with olive oil as a dipping paste (za'atar wa zeit), or rubbed onto proteins before roasting. The interaction between the herb, the acid of the sumac, and the fat of the sesame creates a flavour combination that is greater than the sum of its parts.
Za'atar is a flavour of place — it tastes like the rocky hillsides of the Levant, of wild herbs and sun-dried intensity. Mixed with olive oil it becomes simultaneously acid, herbal, nutty, and fatty — a complete flavour profile in a dipping sauce. On roast chicken it caramelises into a crust that concentrates all four elements simultaneously.
- Quality of the dried thyme determines quality of the blend — the wild Origanum syriacum has a more complex, slightly medicinal depth than cultivated thyme. Greek mountain oregano is the closest widely available substitute - Sumac must be fresh — old sumac loses its tartaric acid brightness and becomes flat and dusty - Sesame must be toasted — raw sesame contributes little; lightly toasted sesame adds roasted fat complexity - Za'atar wa zeit ratio: approximately equal parts za'atar blend and good olive oil — the oil must be excellent because it is tasted directly [VERIFY ratio] - Applied to flatbread before baking, the sesame toasts further and the sumac intensifies
OTTOLENGHI JERUSALEM — Technique Entries OT-01 through OT-25