Hangzhou, Zhejiang — the dish combines two of the region's most celebrated products: Longjing tea and Qiantang River shrimp
Longjing xia ren: freshwater shrimp stir-fried with Longjing (Dragon Well) green tea leaves — one of China's most celebrated regional dishes and a symbol of Hangzhou cuisine. The fresh tea leaves are first steeped briefly in hot water then added to just-velveted shrimp in the wok. The result is the essence of spring — green tea fragrance permeating sweet river shrimp.
Delicate, grassy-sweet tea fragrance, tender velveted shrimp, spring freshness — one of China's most elegant simple dishes
{"Only new-season Longjing (before Qingming, 'pre-rain' grade) is authentic","Shrimp must be velveted (egg white, cornstarch, cold water) before quick-frying","Tea leaves added at the last moment — prolonged heat destroys delicate green tea flavour","Oil temperature must be low when velveting — 120°C maximum to set coating without browning"}
{"Use live freshwater river shrimp if possible — the flavour is noticeably superior","First steep leaves for 30 seconds in 80°C water, drain, then add to wok","The dish should be served on the day — it does not reheat well"}
{"Using old or cheap Longjing — the dish is only as good as the tea","Overheating when adding tea leaves — green tea turns bitter when cooked over high heat","Not velveting the shrimp — without it, they tighten and toughen"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop