Zhejiang Province — Jiangnan autumn delicacy
Raw small freshwater crabs marinated raw in Shaoxing rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, and aromatics for 3–7 days until the crab flesh is cured and slightly firm, the roe intensely flavoured. A signature Jiangnan delicacy considered extremely precious, often served only in the crab season (October–December). The alcohol from Shaoxing wine does the preserving work.
Intoxicating wine-soy-spice cure against raw sweet crab; the roe is creamy, wine-perfumed, intensely savoury — arguably the most extraordinary Chinese delicacy
{"Small freshwater crabs (not marine) — the thin shells allow wine penetration","Marinade: Shaoxing Hua Diao wine, premium soy, rock sugar, ginger, Sichuan pepper, star anise","Submerge crabs fully in marinade; refrigerate 3–5 days for sweet flavour, 7 days for more intense cure","Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled; eat the orange roe and creamy head fat"}
{"October hairy crab (Da Zha Xie) season is when this is most prized — the golden roe is extraordinary","The Shaoxing wine must be good quality — Hua Diao aged wine creates incomparably complex cure","Pair with warm Shaoxing wine poured from a clay pot — the combination is transcendent"}
{"Using salt water crab instead of freshwater — different shells, different cure penetration","Not ensuring crabs are fully submerged — partial exposure creates uneven cure","Eating too soon — 3 days minimum required for the alcohol to fully penetrate and cure"}
Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop