Apennine interior of Molise — cicerchia cultivation is ancient in the central Italian highlands where the legume grows on poor soils at altitude. The Isernia and Campobasso provinces both maintain the tradition.
Cicerchia (Lathyrus sativus, grass pea) is one of the ancient legumes of the Apennine interior — drought-resistant, yielding on thin soils, and with a flavour richer and more complex than chickpea. In Molise, cicerchia soup is made with the dried legume soaked overnight, then long-simmered with soffritto, a bone (often ham bone or lard rind), peperoncino, and finished with a thread of raw olive oil and stale bread in the bowl. The cicerchia has a distinctive earthiness — darker, more mineral than other legumes — that the Molisani use to advantage in winter soups. The preparation is nearly identical to the Umbrian and Marchigiani versions but Molise uses more peperoncino.
Cicerchia soup is dark and earthy in the bowl — the broth turns a deep tan colour from the legumes and is intensely flavoured from the long simmer with ham bone. The peperoncino adds warmth; the raw olive oil a brightness. Torn bread in the bowl absorbs the broth and becomes the substance of the dish. It is the taste of Apennine winter.
Soak cicerchia 24 hours, changing water twice (reduces antinutrients). Discard soaking water. Build soffritto of onion, celery, carrot in olive oil; add a piece of lard rind or ham bone. Add drained cicerchia and cold water to cover by 5cm. Simmer gently 1.5-2 hours until completely tender — cicerchia takes longer than chickpea. Season with salt only after the legumes are tender (salt added early toughens the skin). Finish with peperoncino, a crushed garlic clove, and torn stale bread in the bowl. Thread raw olive oil over each serving.
Cicerchia can cause neurological symptoms if consumed in large quantities over long periods (lathyrism) — a real historical concern in famine conditions, irrelevant in normal cooking quantities. The flavour is worth seeking out: a deep, slightly smoky earthiness that chickpea cannot replicate. Cicerchia di Serra de' Conti (Marche) is the most famous cultivar; Molise grows its own local varieties.
Insufficient soaking — cicerchia requires longer soaking than other legumes due to the harder skin. Salting too early — the skin never fully softens if salt is added before the legume is cooked. Under-cooking — cicerchia must be fully soft before serving; any chalkiness is a failure.
Slow Food Editore, Molise in Cucina; Anna Gosetti della Salda, Le Ricette Regionali Italiane