Anguilla alla Comacchiese
Emilia-Romagna — Comacchio lagoons, Ferrara province
Eel from the Comacchio lagoons of Ferrara province — the Po Delta's most celebrated product. Comacchio eels are traditionally grilled on skewers (over charcoal or wood) and dressed with white wine vinegar during cooking. The method is ancient: alternating eel pieces and bay leaves on long skewers, grilled at a distance from the fire so the fat renders slowly. The vinegar sprinkled during cooking (which hisses and steams) deglazes the surface caramelisation and adds acidity. The eel is served with the cooking vinegar as a dressing — no other sauce. The season is autumn (September–October) when eels are migrating and at their fattest.