Pappardelle al Ragù Bianco di Vitello Toscano
Florence and Chianti, Tuscany
The bianco (white) ragù of Tuscany: veal shoulder slowly braised with soffritto, white wine, and no tomato whatsoever. The sauce is pale, cream-tinged, aromatic with sage and rosemary, and subtly enriched with a small amount of cream added at the end. Served on pappardelle (the wide Tuscan egg pasta). The ragù bianco tradition predates the widespread adoption of the tomato in Italian cooking — it represents the pre-18th-century Tuscan braised meat sauce, when wine and herbs were the only flavourings.