Japanese Monkfish and Anko Nabe: Winter Hotpot and the Kanto Delicacy
Ibaraki Prefecture (Ōarai coastal town) — Japan's most celebrated anko (monkfish) production area
Anko (monkfish, Lophiomus setigerus)—not to be confused with anko (red bean paste)—is celebrated in Japanese winter cuisine for one specific quality: its liver (ankimo), which has been called 'foie gras of the sea' and commands prices that reflect this positioning. Ankimo is monkfish liver steamed gently in sake until firm, pressed into a cylinder, and served sliced with momiji oroshi (spicy grated daikon) and ponzu—the preparation that has brought global attention to the ingredient. Beyond the liver, anko nabe (monkfish hot pot) is the most celebrated preparation: the gelatinous skin and chewy flesh of monkfish are simmered together in a dashi-miso-sake broth, producing a collagen-rich, intensely savory hot pot. The monkfish's extraordinary ugliness (it has no commercial appeal as a display ingredient) combined with its culinary excellence is a well-recognized irony in Japanese fish culture—the anglerfish's lure hangs over a face that seems designed for Halloween, yet every part except the gall bladder is culinarily usable. The Ōarai anko festival (January) celebrates the preparation of whole monkfish hung from a hook and butchered whole—a technique called tsurushi-giri that allows precise sectioning of the very gelatinous fish without a cutting board. For professionals, sourcing fresh ankimo is the access point to one of Japanese cuisine's most genuinely extraordinary ingredients.