Neri Ame Starch Candy Pulling Asakusa Street Food
Japan; Edo period Asakusa temple festival culture; mizuame as pre-cane-sugar historical sweetener
Neri ame ('kneaded candy') is one of Japan's oldest confections—a pulled taffy-like candy made from mizuame (liquid rice starch syrup) that is sold by street vendors at traditional festivals and Asakusa temple grounds. The vendor provides small bamboo sticks and a dollop of amber-colored liquid mizuame that begins as a translucent honey-thick syrup. The buyer is instructed to 'neri' (knead/pull) the candy between the two sticks by repeatedly stretching and folding—within a few minutes of working, the candy turns from amber to pearl-white through air incorporation as the continuous folding creates millions of tiny air bubbles that refract light. This transformation—from translucent amber to opaque white—is the visual magic of neri ame, with the customer being the performer. The texture also changes from elastic and sticky to a lighter, silkier consistency as air is incorporated. The activity is as much entertainment as confection. Mizuame production: glutinous rice or sweet potato starch is converted to sugar through malting (using rice malt) in a process that predates modern sugar production by centuries. Neri ame is the entry point for understanding the significance of mizuame as Japan's historical sweetening agent before cane sugar became widely available.