Portugal
Portugal's version of floating islands — poached meringue clouds floating on a pool of crème anglaise, finished with a caramel drizzle. The technique is simpler than French îles flottantes but no less precise: the meringue must be stiffer to hold its shape during poaching, the milk used for poaching flavours the crème anglaise that follows, and the caramel must be cooked to a dark amber before cooling and drizzling. Farofias is a convent sweet in origin — appearing in the same tradition as ovos moles and toucinho do céu — and the egg-yolk richness of the custard against the airiness of the meringue represents the duality of that tradition: restraint (the meringue) and excess (the custard).
Whisk egg whites to stiff peak — not dry. Drop in large spoonfuls into gently simmering flavoured milk. Poach for 2-3 minutes per side, turning once. Remove to a paper-lined tray. Use the poaching milk as the base for the crème anglaise — pour hot over beaten egg yolks, then return to low heat and stir until the cream coats the spoon. Caramel must reach 170°C before adding water.
The crème anglaise can be made with vanilla from Madagascar or with lemon zest — the Portuguese tradition uses lemon or cinnamon for the custard flavour. Some versions use a coffee caramel instead of a plain caramel — this adds bitterness that cuts the sweetness of the meringue and custard. Serve at room temperature (not cold) for the best flavour and texture expression.
Over-whipping the whites to dry peak — the meringue cracks during poaching. Boiling rather than simmering the milk — the meringue cooks too fast on the outside and stays raw inside. Making the crème anglaise too thick — it should be just coat-the-back-of-a-spoon consistency. Serving the caramel before it has cooled to a pourable but not liquid consistency.
Leite's Culinaria — Portuguese tradition