Memelas (Oaxacan Oval Masa Cakes with Black Beans)
Oaxaca, southern Mexico — a daily staple of Oaxacan markets and home breakfasts
Memelas are thick, oval masa cakes that serve as one of Oaxaca's foundational antojitos — street food bites built directly from masa, the nixtamalised corn dough that underpins much of Mexican cooking. Unlike a tortilla, which is pressed thin and cooked quickly, the memela is formed thick, embedded with beans, and cooked slowly until its exterior develops a golden, slightly crisp crust while the interior remains dense and yielding.
The masa for memelas should be fresh and slightly firmer than tortilla masa — too wet and the cakes will spread; too dry and they will crack. Seasoning the masa itself with salt and a small amount of lard is essential: the fat coats the starch granules, improving texture and contributing flavour. Some cooks add a small amount of dried oregano or crumbled dried chilli directly into the masa.
A portion of masa (roughly the size of a large egg) is shaped by hand into an oval approximately two centimetres thick. A well is pressed into the surface, filled with refried black beans, and sealed by folding the edges over. The memela is then flattened gently — not as thin as a tortilla, but enough that the bean filling becomes visible as a shadow through the dough.
Cooking is done on a dry comal over medium heat. The memela goes on without oil and is cooked for four to five minutes per side until golden, with slight char marks where the corn has caramelised against the hot stone or metal. It should be moved occasionally to prevent burning.
Topped with crumbled queso fresco, salsa verde, and a drizzle of crema, the memela is served warm from the comal and eaten immediately. The combination of seasoned corn, earthy beans, and fresh toppings is complete and satisfying without complexity.