Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux Réserve

Vouvray, France

One of France's greatest sweet wines — Philippe Foreau's noble rot Chenin Blanc from the Clos Naudin tuffeau hillside, released only after years of development. Apricot jam, honey, quince paste, beeswax, chalk mineral, saffron, and a sweetness balanced by extraordinary natural acidity. Ages 30-50 years; at peak resembles Sauternes but with a Loire purity and mineral tension all its own. Extraordinary.

Pairing intelligence

• starter: The great Loire sweet wine and foie gras pairing — Vouvray's apricot jam and mineral acidity balances the foie gras's extraordinary richness; the moelleux gelée creates a circular reference; brioche provides textural contrast
• dessert: The Loire tradition of pear tarte tatin and its sweet Chenin Blanc — the wine's quince paste and apricot jam character finds direct resonance in the caramelized pear; crème fraîche's tartness mirrors the wine's mineral acidity; vanilla bridges the beeswax richness