Domaine Huet Le Mont Vouvray Sec

Vouvray, France

Vouvray's benchmark dry Chenin Blanc — from the Le Mont hillside's tuffeau chalk and silicon, biodynamically farmed. Quince, green apple, lime, beeswax, chalk mineral, and a taut, restrained dryness that masks extraordinary complexity. At 5-10 years the wax and mineral integrate into something resembling great Chablis premier cru. At 20 years, a revelation of Chenin Blanc's unique capacity for longevity. Loire Valley winemaking at its most intellectually serious.

Pairing intelligence

• aperitif: The Touraine's most traditional charcuterie and its dry white wine — Vouvray sec's quince and chalk mineral cuts through the rillettes' fat; cornichons' acidity bridges the wine's freshness; the moelleux aspic (if used in the terrine) creates a circular reference
• cheese: The Loire's fresh washed-rind cheese and its Chenin Blanc — Vouvray's beeswax and mineral bridges the cheese's fresh lactic creaminess; honey mirrors the wine's natural richness; hazelnuts bridge the chalk mineral