Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Abruzzo, Italy

Italy's most controversial and cult Montepulciano — unfined, unfiltered, concrete-aged, released only after years of development. Dark plum, dried cherry, leather, tar, iron, and a wild, volatile character that divides critics but enchants devotees. At 10-20 years it develops into something of extraordinary depth and individuality. The ultimate expression of artisan Abruzzo winemaking without compromise.

Pairing intelligence

• main: Abruzzo's most beloved street food and its most artisanal red — the wine's dark cherry and iron mineral bridges the lamb's charred fat; Pecorino di Farindola (made with pig's rennet) is one of Italy's rarest cheeses and bridges the wine's wild character
• main: Abruzzo's most ancient peasant preparation and its most peasant wine — Emidio Pepe's wild, natural character is one of the few wines that stands up to this assertive offal stew; vinegar's acidity bridges the wine's volatile character