Henri Bourgeois La Demoiselle de Bourgeois Pouilly-Fumé

Pouilly-Fumé, France

The most commercially accessible serious Pouilly-Fumé — Henri Bourgeois's benchmark Sauvignon Blanc from kimmeridgian clay-limestone soils. Grapefruit, lime, gooseberry, white peach, chalk mineral, and a fresh, direct Loire Sauvignon character. More approachable and earlier-drinking than Dagueneau's extreme mineral style; the ideal introduction to understanding what Pouilly-Fumé does differently to Sancerre.

Pairing intelligence

• cheese: The Central Loire's cheese and wine pairing par excellence — goat cheese and Pouilly-Fumé Sauvignon; the wine's citrus and chalk mineral mirrors the chèvre's lactic freshness; wild garlic bridges the Sauvignon's herbal character
• starter: The spring Loire asparagus and its Sauvignon Blanc — Pouilly-Fumé's green, herbal character bridges the asparagus's vegetal intensity; sauce gribiche's acidity mirrors the wine's freshness; almonds bridge the chalk mineral