Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py

Morgon, France

The most age-worthy natural Morgon — Gamay from the Côte du Py's extinct volcano core, carbonic maceration, minimal sulphur. Iron, dark cherry, crushed schist mineral, violets, and the extraordinary tannic grip that distinguishes the Py from all other Morgon parcels. Needs 5-7 years to open; at 10 years resembles aged Vosne-Romanée. The definitive expression of Morgon's volcanic terroir.

Pairing intelligence

• main: Game bird and volcanic Beaujolais — Morgon's iron mineral and dark cherry depth bridges the pigeon's rich, slightly gamey character; Puy lentils' earthy depth mirrors the schist mineral; truffle amplifies the wine's complexity
• main: The great French pot-au-feu and natural Beaujolais — Morgon's cherry freshness and iron mineral cuts through the rich bone broth; duck adds gamey depth that bridges the wine's Pinot-like complexity; marrow mirrors the schist richness