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France — spirits

Martinique AOC — Rhum Agricole

Martinique is the only rum-producing territory with a French AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) — granted in 1996 for Rhum Agricole. The AOC mandates that rum be distilled exclusively from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice (not molasses), at specific still types, and from approved cane varieties grown in designated parcels of the island. The result is a radically different product from molasses-based rum: grassy, vegetal, funky in a green-cane sense rather than fruity-funk, with a freshness and terroir expression that changes by plantation, cane variety, and harvest timing. Blanc (unaged) is consumed locally with food; Elevé sous Bois (3 months wood) bridges raw to aged; Vieux (aged minimum 3 years) develops vanilla, spice, and dried fruit. Single vintage 'Millésime' expressions — comparable to vintage Cognac — are the pinnacle.

Year Rating Notes
2022 91 The 2022 Martinique production benefited from a clean, dry harvest window. Neisson's 2022 Blanc achieved 93 points from specialist rum critics. The fresh cane juice quality was outstanding — among the best unaged agricole expressions produced in recent years.
2019 90 The 2019 harvest was a strong standard year for Martinique: consistent rainfall and the structured AOC regulations maintained quality across all producers. Blanc expressions from 2019 showcase the region's fresh, grassy cane character at its most expressive.
2015 93 Exceptional Martinique cane harvest: ideal rainfall and temperature created unusually rich sugarcane juice with high Brix levels. The 2015 AOC agricole production — Neisson's Parcellaire single-parcel releases from this year — achieved critical consensus of 95+. Aged expressions from this year are at peak drinking (8-10 year tropical aging).
Provenance