Portugal — wine

Colares

One of the world's most historically significant and nearly-extinct wine appellations, just west of Lisbon on the Atlantic coast. Colares is planted on ancient sandy beaches where phylloxera cannot survive — making these among the world's last pre-phylloxera ungrafted vines, some over 100 years old. The indigenous Ramisco grape produces wines of extraordinary tannin, dark fruit, and iodine-salinity from the Atlantic. Minimal production; deeply endangered.

Year Rating Notes
2023 Atlantic-cooled season on sandy dunes; small crop of typical briny, tannic Ramisco
2022 Excellent vintage for old-vine Ramisco; remarkable concentration from the pre-phylloxera vines
2021 Wetter Atlantic year; lighter style but with the characteristic iodine and Atlantic character
2020 Reliable vintage with fine dark fruit and the region's signature sandy-mineral quality
2019 Benchmark vintage; deepest, most complex Ramisco in years from the ancient ungrafted vines