>
Find a dish The Library Beverages The Routes The Table The Pantry
The Explorer Cuisines The Protocols Suppliers For Professionals Methodology
Pricing About Enter
Mexico — spirits

Oaxaca — Mezcal

Mezcal is to tequila what Armagnac is to Cognac — the artisanal, terroir-forward ancestor that preserves process the industrial version has abandoned. Any agave species, anywhere in the authorised states, distilled in the traditional way (pit roasting, stone milling, open fermentation, copper or clay pot distillation) is mezcal. Oaxaca produces 85% of all mezcal. The earthen pit roast — burying the piñas (agave hearts) with hot rocks for 3-7 days — is the source of mezcal's distinctive smoke character, which varies by fuel type (mesquite, ocote), pit depth, and duration. Each palenque (mezcal distillery) and maestro mezcalero produces a distinct expression.

Year Rating Notes
2023 87 Classic Oaxacan season; excellent agave ripeness across Santiago Matatlán and surrounding areas.
2022 85 Good conditions overall; solid Espadín maturity and interesting wild variety production.
2021 78 Irregular rainfall challenged wild agave producers; cultivated Espadín more reliable. Variable quality.
2020 91 Excellent growing conditions; agave reached exceptional maturity levels. Many wild varietals at peak ripeness.
2019 84 Moderate rainfall; good agave development with characteristic Oaxacan minerality. Solid production year for artisanal producers.
2018 89 Strong rainy season followed by dry harvest; ideal for Espadín and wild agave maturation. Exceptional batch quality across small Oaxacan palenques.
Provenance