Mexico — spirits
Oaxaca — Mezcal
Mezcal is to tequila what Armagnac is to Cognac — the artisanal, terroir-forward ancestor that preserves process the industrial version has abandoned. Any agave species, anywhere in the authorised states, distilled in the traditional way (pit roasting, stone milling, open fermentation, copper or clay pot distillation) is mezcal. Oaxaca produces 85% of all mezcal. The earthen pit roast — burying the piñas (agave hearts) with hot rocks for 3-7 days — is the source of mezcal's distinctive smoke character, which varies by fuel type (mesquite, ocote), pit depth, and duration. Each palenque (mezcal distillery) and maestro mezcalero produces a distinct expression.
Benchmark products
Vintage assessments
| Year | Rating | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2023 | 87 | Classic Oaxacan season; excellent agave ripeness across Santiago Matatlán and surrounding areas. |
| 2022 | 85 | Good conditions overall; solid Espadín maturity and interesting wild variety production. |
| 2021 | 78 | Irregular rainfall challenged wild agave producers; cultivated Espadín more reliable. Variable quality. |
| 2020 | 91 | Excellent growing conditions; agave reached exceptional maturity levels. Many wild varietals at peak ripeness. |
| 2019 | 84 | Moderate rainfall; good agave development with characteristic Oaxacan minerality. Solid production year for artisanal producers. |
| 2018 | 89 | Strong rainy season followed by dry harvest; ideal for Espadín and wild agave maturation. Exceptional batch quality across small Oaxacan palenques. |