Chiles Rellenos

Chiles rellenos are roasted and peeled poblano chillies, stuffed with Oaxaca cheese (or picadillo — spiced meat), battered in a light egg white batter, and fried until puffed and golden. They are served in a simple tomato broth or salsa roja. The dish requires patience: the chilli must be completely roasted and peeled, the stuffed chilli must be cold before battering, and the oil must be at the right temperature for the batter to puff.

Puebla, Mexico. Chiles rellenos appear in Mexican cookbooks from the 19th century. The egg-battered version (chile en nogada — in walnut cream sauce — is the other great Pueblan version) reflects the colonial-era culinary refinement of Puebla.

Salsa roja (a simple roasted tomato sauce) alongside — the chiles rellenos are placed in a shallow pool of the sauce. A cold Modelo Especial or a glass of dry Mexican white wine from Valle de Guadalupe.

{"Poblano chillies: roasted directly over a gas flame or under a broiler until completely charred on all sides — the entire surface should be black. The char is removed, not eaten","Peeling: place charred chillies immediately in a sealed plastic bag or covered bowl for 10 minutes — the steam loosens the skin. Peel under running water. Do not rinse the interior","The slit: make one lengthwise cut without cutting the stem end or through to the other side — the chilli must remain intact","Stuffing: Oaxaca cheese torn into strips, or picadillo (ground beef with raisins, olives, almonds, tomato — the colonial stuffing). Cold stuffed chillies hold their shape better during frying","The egg batter: separate eggs, beat whites to stiff peaks, fold yolks in gently — this creates the light, puffed batter","Fry at 175C: deep enough oil to submerge each chile. Cook 2 minutes per side until puffed and pale gold"}