Fried Rice

Chinese fried rice (chao fan) requires cold, day-old rice. Fresh rice contains too much moisture and clumps together in the wok — cold rice, refrigerated overnight, has dried out slightly so each grain separates and fries rather than steams. The rest is wok hei: the flame-kissed, slightly smoky quality that only extreme heat produces. Eggs, spring onion, soy sauce, and whatever protein is available are secondary to the technique.

China. Fried rice appears in Chinese cookbooks from the Sui Dynasty (6th century). The dish is pan-Chinese — every region has its version. Yangzhou fried rice (with shrimp, egg, and green onion) is the internationally known standard. Fujian fried rice is topped with a gravy. Cantonese fried rice uses lard.

Tsingtao lager — fried rice is casual, everyday eating. Tsingtao is China's most consumed beer and the natural partner. For something more interesting: Shaoxing rice wine mixed with hot water in a small cup.

Cold cooked rice: at least overnight refrigeration. Fresh rice produces a clumped, wet fried rice. If only fresh rice is available, spread it on a tray and allow to cool and dry for 2 hours Carbon steel wok at maximum heat: the wok must be at a temperature where rice added to the oil sizzles immediately Oil: lard is traditional and produces the best flavour. Neutral vegetable oil is the standard alternative Egg technique: scramble the eggs in the wok first, remove before they are fully set, then set aside. Finish cooking the eggs when the rice is added — the eggs should be in visible streaks through the rice, not completely homogenised The toss: continuous tossing to prevent the rice from sticking and to ensure every grain contacts the hot wok surface Seasoning: light soy sauce drizzled down the side of the wok (not on top of the rice) so it caramelises on the hot metal before mixing with the rice