Minestrone

Minestrone is not a soup with random vegetables thrown in. It is a disciplined construction where each vegetable is added in reverse order of cooking time so all arrive at tenderness simultaneously. A Parmigiano rind simmers in the broth throughout — this is the backbone. The soup is served thick enough that a spoon dragged through the surface holds its path.

Italy-wide, with regional variations. The word minestrone derives from minestra (soup or course), with the -one suffix indicating largeness. Every region of Italy has a version — Genovese with pesto, Milanese with rice, Neapolitan with pasta. The concept of making substantial soup from seasonal vegetables and legumes is as old as Italian cooking.

Vermentino or a light Barbera d'Asti — the soup has tomato acidity and the wine needs to match without competing. In winter: a young Dolcetto d'Alba, whose light tannins and cherry fruit work with the earthy beans and vegetables.

{"Build a soffritto first: onion, celery, carrot in olive oil for 15 minutes until soft — this is the flavour base for every litre of soup","Parmigiano rind: add one 10cm piece of aged Parmigiano rind to the pot with the stock — it dissolves slowly over the cooking time, contributing glutamate depth to the broth","Hard vegetables first: celeriac, turnip, potato added 30 minutes before softer vegetables — all should finish simultaneously","Cannellini or borlotti beans: half pureed and stirred back into the soup to thicken the broth — this is the textural signature of classic minestrone","Pasta or rice added in the last 10 minutes of cooking — the pasta should be slightly undercooked when the soup is served as it continues cooking in the hot broth","Finish with a spoonful of basil pesto stirred through at the table — this is the Genovese tradition and transforms the soup"}