Quesadillas

A quesadilla is a corn or flour tortilla folded over Oaxaca cheese and a filling, then griddled until the cheese melts and the tortilla develops golden, blistered char marks. The Mexico City street version uses corn tortillas and fresh masa pressed on the comal; the northern Mexican and international version uses large flour tortillas. Both are legitimate — but they are different dishes. The cheese must be Oaxaca (quesillo) or Chihuahua — not cheddar.

Mexico. The quesadilla in its corn tortilla form is a pre-Columbian preparation — the Aztecs cooked tortillas with various fillings on the comal. The flour tortilla version is a northern Mexican development post-colonisation, reflecting the wheat agriculture of Sonora and Chihuahua.

Salsa verde (roasted tomatillo) and a cold Topo Chico — the simplest, most correct accompaniments to street quesadillas. Or a michelada if eating standing at a taquería.

{"Oaxaca cheese (quesillo): a string-style fresh cheese that melts smoothly without becoming greasy — this is the correct cheese. Shred by pulling into thin strands before using","Corn tortilla version: fresh masa pressed to order on the comal, cheese added to one half, folded, pressed with a spatula, cooked until the masa is set and the cheese has melted — 3-4 minutes per side","Flour tortilla version: a large flour tortilla spread with cheese and filling on one half, folded, then cooked in a dry cast iron pan or comal over medium heat","The comal temperature: medium heat, not high — high heat chars the tortilla before the cheese melts","Fillings: huitlacoche (corn fungus), squash blossom (flor de calabaza), rajas (roasted poblano strips) — the traditional Mexico City fillings. Mushroom is a widely accepted contemporary addition","Serve immediately: the quesadilla must be eaten the moment it comes off the comal — resting causes the tortilla to steam and become soft"}