Waedele

Waedele (also Wädele, Alsatian for ‘calf’ or, colloquially, ‘knuckle’) is the Alsatian braised pork knuckle — the region’s answer to the German Schweinshaxe, but prepared with characteristically French refinement: braised slowly in Riesling with aromatic vegetables rather than roasted to crackling as in Bavaria. The pork knuckle (jarret de porc, ideally from a free-range pig for superior flavour and texture) weighs approximately 800g-1kg per person and must be prepared with care. The rind is scored in a crosshatch pattern at 1cm intervals, cutting through to the fat but not into the meat — this scoring allows the rendering fat to escape and the rind to become tender during the long braise. The knuckles are first browned in lard or goose fat in a heavy casserole until the rind is deeply coloured on all sides (15-20 minutes of patient turning). A mirepoix of onions, carrots, and celery is added, followed by a generous deglaze with dry Riesling (half a bottle per 2 knuckles). Juniper berries, bay leaves, cloves, and a cinnamon stick compose the aromatics — this spice profile reveals Alsace’s position on the medieval spice routes. Stock or water is added to come two-thirds up the knuckles, the pot is covered, and the braise proceeds at 150°C for 3-3.5 hours, turning the knuckles every 45 minutes, until the meat is falling from the bone and the rind is gelatinously tender. For a final flourish, the braised knuckles are removed, placed on a rack, and passed under a very hot grill for 5-10 minutes to crisp the scored rind into a patchwork of crunchy, golden squares — the best of both worlds: French braise depth with Germanic crunch. The braising liquid is strained, reduced, and served as a natural jus. The traditional accompaniments are sauerkraut or potato salad, with a pot of sharp mustard alongside.

Score rind in crosshatch without cutting into meat. Brown thoroughly in goose fat. Braise in Riesling with juniper, bay, cloves, cinnamon. 150°C for 3-3.5 hours until falling off bone. Finish under grill to crisp the rind. Serve with sauerkraut and mustard.