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‹ Provenance 500 Drinks: Cocktails

I

Origin

Sam Ross, Milk and Honey, New York City, 2007. Ross created the drink for Audrey Saunders's Pegu Club menu. The equal-parts structure was inspired by the Last Word (Entry 26), which Ross admired for its formula elegance. Named for M.I.A.'s song 'Paper Planes' from the same year.

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Description

The Paper Plane is the 21st century's most successful equal-parts cocktail — bourbon, Aperol, Amaro Nonino Quintessenza, and fresh lemon juice in exact 3/4 oz measures, shaken and served up. Created by Sam Ross at Milk and Honey in New York City in 2007 and named for the M.I.A. song, it demonstrates that the equal-parts formula (first established by the Last Word, Entry 26) can be applied to entirely different families of ingredients to create a completely original drink. The Paper Plane's genius is the three-bittersweet Italian liqueurs playing against the bourbon's American warmth, all pulled together by lemon's acidity. It is balanced to the decimal point — adjust any one element by 1/4 oz and the drink breaks.

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The Thread

—The Paper Plane's Italian amaro components connect directly to the Italian digestivo tradition — Amaro Nonino is a Friulian product (grappa-based), Aperol is from Padua. The bourbon provides the American half of the transatlantic flavour conversation. The equal-parts formula itself connects to the cocktail mathematics explored by the Savoy Hotel bartenders in the 1920s.
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Flavour Context

FOOD PAIRING: The Paper Plane's bitter-sweet, citrus-bourbon complexity pairs with umami-rich and bitter preparations. Provenance 1000 pairings: grilled peach and gorgonzola salad (the Aperol's orange note and the amaro's bitterness balance the fruit-cheese pairing), duck breast with cherry reduction (the Nonino's dried fruit notes mirror the reduction), bitter chocolate fondant (bitter on bitter is a power pairing), aged Parmigiano with truffle honey (the umami amplifies the amaro's complexity), and charcuterie with bitter orange marmalade.

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