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Guangxi Liuzhou Snail Noodles (Luo Si Fen)

Liuzhou, Guangxi

‹ The Canonical Dishes

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I

Origin

Liuzhou, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region — luo si fen began as a street food specific to Liuzhou; the export version became a global phenomenon during the COVID-19 lockdowns when people craved adventurous food

II

Description

Luo si fen: the pungently fragrant rice noodles of Liuzhou, Guangxi — nationally famous for their polarising smell (from the dried snail broth and fermented bamboo shoots). Fresh rice noodles in a slow-simmered river snail broth, topped with fermented pickled bamboo shoots, peanuts, fried tofu puffs, dried tofu, fresh coriander, and chili oil. The fermented bamboo smell is alarming; the taste is addictive.

III

The Thread

—Japanese natto (similarly polarising fermented ingredient)
—French fromage époisses (similar pungency-but-addictive character)
—Swedish surströmming (similar divide-the-room intensity)
IV

Flavour Context

Deeply savoury snail broth, pungently sour bamboo, fresh rice noodle — confronting and addictive; one of China's great acquired tastes

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