Ma Lai Gao (马来糕) — Steamed Brown Sugar Sponge Cake

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Ma lai gao (马来糕, Malay cake — a dim sum preparation with no direct Malay origin, though the name persists) is a steamed sponge cake of unusual texture — soft, slightly bouncy, with a deep caramel-brown colour from the brown sugar or molasses used in the batter, and a pleasantly sweet flavour with malty undertones. The traditional version uses a fermentation technique in which the batter rests overnight — the yeast present in the wheat flour and the alkaline baking powder interact to produce a slightly tangy, complex flavour and an extra-light texture. A correctly made ma lai gao should have an open, uniform crumb and a surface that is completely smooth and slightly shiny.

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